Observations of Another Wandering Traveler

Runs & Reflections

2011-11-09T10:58:00.000-08:00

I once dreamed about writing a book about the things I learn when running in various parts of the world. For me going on a run is one of the most centering experiences and I have found one of the most amazing ways to see the world. First of all, when out on a run alone I am more present with the moment and my surroundings then other parts of my day. Furthermore I am one of those people who tends to think better while in motion, I formulated almost all of my masters thesis running on the trails outside of Corvallis. For these two reasons, I tend to take in, process and reflect most deeply during those morning runs, no matter where I find myself.
During this trip in Guatemala I have found myself running in some very beautiful places, surrounded by a traditional lifestyle that has been infiltrated with the effects of a globalized market. Although women still dress in the traditional Cortes and Huipiles, there are some serious threats to the Mayan Cosmovision and traditional way of life, which can be expressed through the various crops that I find myself running among; corn, coffee and avocado. The dirt roads in the small communities where I have been running in Guatemala are usually lined with one of these crops, all of them very beautiful, providing a scenic run, very different from the forests I am used to at home. Although they are all pleasing to the eye, the histories and current effects of these agricultural endeavors are not all as delightful.
Lets start with the cornfields, which can give the feeling of being surrounded by “authentic” Mesoamerican culture. The Mayans believed a woman, initiating the fifth creation of man, created them from corn ground. Everything in the Mayan cosmovision is based corn, and working the land, including their calendar, whose 270 days aligns with its gestation period of corn. The Milpa system is the traditional way of growing corn which combines it with beans and squash creating a symbiotic relationship where the corn provide a stalk for the beans to climb, the beans fix nitrogen in the soil that the corn needs, and the Squash serves as a ground cover that protects against erosion, and prevents weeds. These three foods are also nutritionally complete when eaten together as a meal. The interesting thing about the cornfields I normally run though is that I rarely see this milpa system implemented, regardless of the centuries of proof on its effectiveness. Instead I see corn growing on it’s own and scattered signs that say Atrazine, which is a pesticide produced in Switzerland. Atrazine is the biggest contaminant of drinking water, and therefore illegal in Europe, but still used throughout the Americas. Why is it that harmful imported chemicals have taken the place of the successful farming techniques that have been created over thousands of years? In my opinion the answer is money, and the priorities and values that the global market tends to embody.
Coffee Fincas also provide a wonderful setting to enjoy a morning run as well. I love the end product of these farms and drink more coffee than I am proud to admit. Not only are the trees really beautiful, but I enjoy thinking about where this coffee will some day end up and who will enjoy it, and what kind of conversation or work will they enjoy it over. Coffee has become part of a culture and way of life for me, there is nothing I love more than spending an afternoon in a coffee shop with friends or reading a book. The side of coffee I am exposed to here is not always as romantic though. Guatemala is the second largest producer of “High Quality” coffee behind Colombia making up 15% of its GDP. But where does this coffee all come from? It’s grown on land here Guatemala, worked by local people in alarmingly bad conditions. Here in San Juan Cotzal we work with a women’s weaving co-op which was started in big part to provide an alternative to working on coffee plantations for women left widowed by the civil war. Guatemalans working on these plantations work hard 12 hours days cutting and carrying coffee across this mountainous terrain. People commit themselves to 30 days of work before receiving a paycheck, which works out to about $2 a day, and is oftentimes not paid in full. The plantation owners don’t hesitate to take advantage of the fact that many people from this region are unable to read, write, speak much Spanish, and in turn advocate for themselves. Coffee is a $600 billion global industry, where only .5% ends up in the hands of those doing the labor, the ones who most likely need it.
While running along the shores of Lago Atitlan I was awed by the majestic views, especially right outside of IMAP, the permaculture center where we worked while there. The road to IMAP forks off the main paved road and weaves through 2 Avocado farms before arriving at the lakeshore. The first trees I pass through are owned and operated by a Guatemalan employee of Monsanto. The trees have been genetically modified to produce upwards of a thousand avocados per season for export. It is ironic that this farm exists alongside IMAP whose permaculture philosophy urges working with nature instead of trying to control it.
A little further down the road is the second avocado farm, which is cultivated on land bought by a wealthy Guatemalan and fenced in with tall chain link blockades. I was told that this land all used to be local farmland where people grew food to sustain their community, land that is now dedicated 100% to a mono-crop for export. Much like the coffee, avocados are grown on Guatemalan land, and in general are not used to feed Guatemalans, forcing people into the global market where they must pay for food rather than grow it themselves due to a shortage of land. Ivan Illich articulates this phenomenon, and describes in part how a land as bio-diverse and rich as Guatemala still has one of the highest malnutrition rates in the world:

e]lite professional groups . . . have come to exert a 'radical monopoly' on such basic human activities as health, agriculture, home-building, and learning, leading to a 'war on subsistence' that robs peasant societies of their vital skills and know-how. The result of much economic development is very often not human flourishing but 'modernized poverty,' dependency, and an out-of-control system in which the humans become worn-down mechanical parts.

Unfortunately, none of these issues I am observing on my runs are new to Guatemala, in contrast agricultural land was a leading cause of the civil war that occurred here and resulted in over 200,000 deaths of mostly indigenous people. The global economy has turned Guatemala (and many other countries throughout the world) into production plants, that fill every desire of the developed world, be it coffee, broccoli out of season, avocados or bananas, and robbing the locals of the land they desperately rely on, not only physically but also culturally. As I mentioned earlier, the entire Mayan cosmovision (or way of making sense of the world) is based upon corn and working with the land. Without land to work, people are denied the very basis of their being. My runs here in Guatemala remind me everyday that there is a connection between the global economy, the things I enjoy at home and the realities of people here in Guatemala. This economy and globalization is something we are all wrapped up in, it’s quite difficult to not be, but I don’t feel comfortable with its priorities overriding my values. And I definitely don’t feel comfortable knowing that Guatemala is producing food based on our desires, while its own people are hungry. I may not be able to singlehandedly take down this huge machine, but I do have the choice to live my life and spend money according to my values.

Plan Hormiga

2011-09-23T13:16:00.001-07:00

As I walk though the fields of corn in Pachaj I can’t help but notice how familiar this town feels to me regardless of how different the corn appears due to the season. The community of Pachaj is home to Chico Mendes Reforestation Project, a long time friend and partner of Dragons in a reciprocal process of learning from one another. We have spent the last few weeks working together with Armando, the project organizer, in his Quiche village to plant trees for our collective future. Every day we learn more about the environmental issues of Guatemala, and the complexities of the systems that drive them. Armando speaks from his heart about both the problems he sees in the world, and the obligations he feels towards nature, as a form of repayment for all it provides him and his family.
At times I see the frustration of all the problems weighing on our students, and sometimes myself…they can seem so complicated and insurmountable. Throughout my trips with Dragons students I have heard so many times “but how can one person really go up against a system that seems so irreversible?”, a question I still ask myself at times, although less and less these days. I owe much of my optimism for the future of our environment to the community of Pachaj, and the time I have spent here. Armando talks with great passion about “Plan Hormiga” (The Ant Plan), which illustrates his philosophy on how to go about making necessary changes in our world that will benefit future generations. If you have ever sat and observed ants, you notice that they all work diligently, and selflessly towards a common goal. When volunteers and students come though Pachaj, their contributions are one step in the progression, their work will be picked up by the next person to arrive, and so continues the process, binding us all together by the this common desire to create a better future for all of our children through planting trees.
I don’t think until very recently I fully understood Plan Hormiga on a deeper level than just being a nice analogy created to give people hope, and a sense of purpose. This understanding comes from being lucky enough to see the links connecting into a chain through my student groups. The students this semester are planting trees in the plastic bags my group filled up in August. We have been hiking up into the mountains and revisiting trees planted by students from past summers, giving them care and making sure they continue to grow. As I watched my students clearing the weeds from the bases of these trees, it connected their work and intentions with those of my past students, and I realized that the Plan Hormiga is real. Even if students do not come back to Chico Mendes (although many do) they are taking a piece of this consciousness, a piece of Chico Mendes with them throughout the rest of their lives, creating a web that connects us all in a way that we may not even comprehend. I am only starting to understand the power of this solidarity that Armando has been watching play out over numerous years, through countless pairs of hands plunging themselves into the same tierra.
I am realizing although it may be easy to claim that our problems are too big to conquer, it is also easy to be part of a Hormiga Plan no matter where we are. I now know that when we pack up our bags and head out of Pachaj, when the season and corn fields change, other hands will take our place, and we will carry this new conciseness to our respective communities and beyond…and this gives me hope.

Back Home...ThankYou Guates!!!

2010-07-30T10:18:00.000-07:00

As I sit in my uncle's gated community in Florida it becomes apparent that I am experiences some "re-entry" shock, similar to that I suppose my students are facing. I believe that we all grew in the past month and shared an experience more genuine than most people could imagine. I never would have guessed that saying goodbye to my studnets and co-instructors would be the biggest challenge I faced on the trip (followed closely by jumping off the balcony into Lake Atitlan). I feel grateful to know that when faced with these challenges I was not alone and will not be in the future when I continue to grow from them.

For the past year I have carried around the following quote in my wallet, just as a reminder of what I wish to strive for in life, "Happiness is mostly a byproduct of doing what makes you feel fullfilled". Throughout the past month I feel as though I have found this happiness and fullfillment. What an incredible feeling to do what you are passionate about while constantly being challened and supported by an amazing group of intelligent students and genuine friends. You have all taught and given me so much, including hope for the future of our world. May your bright, positive energy shine for years to come! As you all know I am here for you anytime you need, as a member of the Dragons community, as a teacher, as a mentor, and as a friend.

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Back to Myself

2010-07-06T11:02:00.000-07:00

Almost a month into my life post grad school I am starting to feel more back to myself, living more in the present and having time to enjoy the adventurous life that makes me so happy. A few days ago I realized that even though I am working long hours here in Guatemala, I still feel happy and content because of the kind of work it is. I am happy living out of a backpack and never knowing what the next day will bring. I feel more at peace with myself when life is simplified in this way. Yesterday it hit me that in the past month I have barely looked in a mirror at all.

The lack of mirrors high in the Sierras at orientation and in our simple homestays in Guatemala may not be directly connected with the rest of my experiences, but it does seem to play a powerful role in how I perceive them. I come from a culture that tells me what beauty is, and that it come from the outside. Although I know that this is backwards, waking up everyday and spending a moment in front of the mirror forces me to consciously or sub consciously judge myself based on what I see. The thing is though, that this reflection does not even start to show the real beauty, but rather the container that holds it.

As I wash my face and brush my teeth in the Pila here in my home in San Jose, I find myself spending that time with the real me, instead of looking at my outside features. I see myself in these moments as well as during my interactions with co-instructors, students and everyone else I meet along the way. The smiling faces, great conversations, big hugs, and moments of silence reflect the true beauty within myself and others.

It is liberating to not see mirrors at every turn tempting me to view my beauty from teh outside, because it is something I cannot change. How wonderful to forget about the reflection and focus on that which makes us what we are, that which we can control, and cultivate allowing to flourish.

A Different Kind of Learning

2009-06-06T23:43:00.001-07:00

What is an education apart from a diploma or a title? Why do we care about it? Is our educational system really just? These questions are among a few of the many that OSU Spanish students who were involved in the annual learning community discussed. The learning community is a 15 credit non-traditional theme-based class with the goal of creating a community setting within the classroom, as well as giving back to the greater community in which we live. The learning community encourages students to relate what they learn in school to personal problems and social justice. The class is made up of roughly half Latino and half Anglos students in an attempt to gain a better understanding of the perspectives and experiences of others. This year’s theme focused on education within the Latino community. Some of our class activities included attending a legislative hearing about tuition equity, writing and performing a play about university life for students from Woodburn Elementary, and meeting with a panel of activists for education in Salem. Outside of class time we were required to do eighty hours of service within the community, as well as carry out a research project, which investigated the academic obstacles Latinos in our community face.

What we learned about the “Latino education crisis” both inside and out of class shocked many of us. While Latinos are the fastest growing minority in our country they remain far behind other groups in academic success. This could have huge ramifications for the entire society if we continue to ignore the fact that we are leaving many children behind. According to the books that we read in class, there are many factors that contribute to this disparity including a lack of social and cultural capital, lack of economic resources, and unfair treatment in school. The research that we carried out in the community supported much of what we read in class.

As our final project for the class we are organizing a local campaign to educate people about the issues we have discussed in class. We will be making and distributing brochures in the community to raise awareness about the results from our research as well as available resources for community members.

This class has helped me better understand the real meaning of an education; a privilege that comes with a responsibility of giving back to the community and fighting for social justice. The true goal of learning has been lost in many forms of formal education, but being part of this learning community has been a great reminder of what an education really signifies. In the words of one interviewee who participated in our research, “Education means the knowledge and power to offer service to the rest”.

2009-05-24T20:24:00.000-07:00

I am sending this to climbing magazine...I doubt they will publish it but it's worth a try huh?

Last April I was fed up with working, so I decided not to. Instead I moved all my stuff into my car and proclaimed myself “a climbing bum” until September. When people asked what my summer plans were I bragged about the life sans responsibility. I spent my days climbing, evenings drinking beer with friends and sleeping wherever I could find a spot for my sleeping bag. I loved living my life day by day, the biggest decisions being where to climb and what to eat for dinner. Oftentimes I went a week without a shower, but it didn’t matter, the only contact I had with non-climbers was going in to town to buy food., and I wasn’t too concerned with strangers seeing me in my stinky state.

Since this time I have reflected a lot on what it means to be a “climbing bum” and I have come to understand that it carries with it a lot of white privilege. I now recognize that a person of color would probably never proclaim themselves “bums” of any kind. I presume that if an African American said she was tired of working and would rather play basketball all day and drink beer with her friends, she would be called irresponsible and lazy, whereas I was not only supported in my decision but also envied. Furthermore, I have come to realize that others in my community may not have the same luxury of being able to frequent any store in whatever state of cleanliness they happen to be in. When I go to the grocery store, un-showered, dressed in dirty climbing clothes, I don’t receive suspicious looks, nor do people follow me around the store, sure I am about to steal something. I have always known that racism still exists in our society but the truth is that I had never realized just how privileged I was, simply by being white…even with something so much a part of my life as climbing. I will always be a climber, but thanks to Mitch Wilkinson I see the world just a little bit differently.

2009-05-18T17:08:00.000-07:00

I submitted some photos to the art magazine on campus and just found out that they have chosen to publish this one in the Spring edition. Other than that things are moving along and I thought it was about time for an update. I am about to finish my first year as a grad student...pretty exciting. I think back to how much I have learned throughout this year and cannot help but be amazed. I have taken classes that have challenged so much of what I "knew" forcing me to re-evaluate the world around me...yet again. This process has been something that was much needed in my life, since it has really taught me a lot about myself. I am going to be working in NM for most of the summer. I will also be getting started on the documentary I am going to make for my thesis project about women, food and identity in Northern New Mexico. I am looking forward to some time to relax, reflect and get ready for next year.

2009-03-06T10:10:00.001-08:00

HER NAME IS PHONETHIP,15 YEARS OLD, LAOTIAN. I NEVER KNEW LAOTIAN WAS A PERSON FROM LAOS, LAOS THE MOST BOMBED COUNTRY IN THE WORLD, LAOS A COUNTRY IN ASIA; NEXT TO VIETNAM

SHE RISES BEFORE THE SUN, 5 AM DAILY. THERE IS STICKY RICE TO BE MADE. HER MOM NEEDS HER HELP, HER BROTHERS ALL AWAY AT SCHOOL, SHE THE YOUNGEST HELPS HER MOM. SHE WANTS TO GO TO ENGLAND. HER ENGLISH IS QUITE GOOD, MY LAOTIAN IS NOT EXISTENT, I AM HERE, SHE IS NOT THERE.

5 :00, TWO TIMES DAILY, IN THE MORNING MAKING STICKY RICE IN THE EVENING AT THE DOCK. SHE WAITS FOR THE FOREIGNERS, SHE USES HER ENGLISH TO CONVINCE THE ARRIVIES TO STAY AT HER MOM’S GUESTHOUSE. EVERYDAY SHE SEES THE WORLD PASS BY HER AND HER VILLLAGE, AGAINST THE CURRENT OF THE MEKONG RIVER. ALTHOUGH THE WORLD EASLILY HEADS UPSTREAM, DOWNSTEAM DOESN’T LEAD TO ENGLAND…WHERE THEY STARTED. HOW MUCH STICKY RICE (PRICE= 10,000 KIP) DOES IT TAKE TO BYPASS THE MEKONG TO ENGLAND? STICKY RICE IS NOT AS LUCRITIVE AS THE BURGERS AND BEER I SERVED WHICH BROUGHT ME HERE. BUT STICKY RICE IS WHAT PHONETHIP SELLS, ALONG THE MEKONG RIVER, IN LAOS, THE MOST BOMBED COUNTRY IN THE WORLD: NEXT TO VIETNAM.

I feel like I have been robbed of an education, an education that actually matters. I have been spoon fed information that ignores phonethip, that silences the majority of the world overpowered by the words of the minority. How can I know my beliefs, when I seem to know so little of the truth? The more I learn the dumber I feel, the more I question everything…

Important Lessons I have learned the past 6 months...

2009-02-05T19:36:00.000-08:00

- Perception is 100% reality

- Our education system reinforces current systems of oppression

- Higher education is not as free as we like to think

-White privilege is very much present in our everyday lives

...and a lot about myself...

Skiing in July!!!

2008-07-19T20:15:00.001-07:00

About three weeks ago I went up to Squamish BC to do some climbing with my friend Dane. Unfortunately he had to to go to work and so I found myself alone in Canada. The good thing about being in a campground frequented by climbers is that you are bound to meet some really awesome people, which I did. I spent a few days climbing with a really cool 6th grade teacher from Washington named James. When he took off I met Nigel and Chelsea, a great couple who are living on Vancouver Island. We did some climbing and made plans to have an adventure on Vancouver Island a few weeks later. I met them on the island, rented some backcountry ski gear and we set out for Mt Myra. We hiked up to the snow line the first day and camped out out a beautiful little lake, waterfall view included. We woke the next morning and started climbing/bush-wacking until we reached enough snow to put on our skis. My first time skinning went well, except for adding a few more expensive items to my gear wishlist. The last push to the summit was a fun little scramble. Looking around it as hard to believe that I was on an island, surrounded in every direction by snow covered mountains. It was absolutely gorgeous. The ski down was great, but really who an complain about skiing in July???

In other news, I was offered a TA position through OSU which means my tuition will be waived in exchange for teaching Spanish 101. I am ecstatic that going back to school is not going to put me in massive debt (although i did manage to convince them I was an Oregon resident...Ariel the Oregonian). I am looking forward being back in an academic setting and being forced to use my noggin a little more.

Life is good

2008-06-24T21:30:00.000-07:00

A couple years ago my friend Molly and I came up with the motto, "people should pay to have our lives". During my time in Korea I definitely did not feel like that. I remember thinking every month of hanging in there for the money was more freedom to travel when I was done. In general I find this to be a quite despicable mentality and I hope to never find myself living so out of the moment again... although now I feel really lucky to have this summer for myself. Once again I feel like "people should pay to have my life". (If anyone has any ideas on how I can capitalize on that idea I am open to suggestions).
Last week was a very eventful week. I spent 4 days rock climbing, attended both a bachelor and bachelorette party, along with a wedding and climbed Mt Hood. (I also unfortunately missed an important wedding in NM). I am realizing that not only am I grateful for my free time this summer, but also for all of the amazing people I have been able to spend it with. I have been really lucky to be able to catch up with old friends as well as share new exciting adventures with them.
Other than that i have been doing lots of paperwork to try and prove to OSU that I'm an Oregon resident, not so easy when I have been out of the country for a year and a half. (No i haven't paid Oregon income tax since 2006, in fact i have not paid any taxes at all...isn't calling Oregon home enough????)

updates

2008-06-11T10:45:00.000-07:00

So much for being good about blogging this summer...
Thought it was about time to give an update as to how life has been going in the rainy Northwest. Life is good being unemployed, but it is mind blowing to me that despite not having a job I don't have any free time...hmmm. I have been babysitting 2 days a week which has provided little extra spending money and been good apart from an eight year old trying to lock me out of the house. I have also been volunteering one day a week at a community acupuncture clinic. I stumbled upon this place when I tweaked my shoulder a couple months ago and instantly fell in love with the place. They provide affordable acupuncture on a sliding scale in a community setting. This is their website if you want to take a look. For those of you who live in Portland, this place is well worth checking out!
http://web.mac.com/pinestreet/iWeb/PSCA/Location%20and%20Hours%20.html

After my long 3 day work week I have been keeping myself entertained with 4 day weekend climbing trips. Luckily I seem to know a lot of people who are willing to leave town for a long weekend, including my sister and friend Mikey. We went to Washington a few weeks back and did a Marathon, trying to climb all the routes at the feathers area. Since weather did not cooperate we were not able to start until noon, but still managed to climb 20 routes that day. We finished the remaining ten the next day.
We also took a trip down to Northern California and spent 3 days camping and bouldering on the beach. It was incredible. We were the only ones out there and were lucky enough to see whales every day. There have also been trips out to Smith Rock and lots of time catching up with old friends.

Plans for the rest of the summer include Ian and Col's wedding, Squamish, Yosemite and the John Muir Trail. I got word from OSU and I was admitted to the Masters program, so I will be starting school in the end of September. I am a little scared to go back to school but am pretty sure I will get excited about it once I start.

Now what?

2008-05-07T13:20:00.000-07:00

Have you seen the Seinfeld where George gets fired from his job and decides that instead of seeking other employment he would rather enjoy a "summer of George" which consists of watching tv, eating junk food, and doing whatever he feels like? After being home for about 2 months, not finding a job and not really feeling like working anyways George Castanza is my inspiration. I have deemed this the "The Summer of Paco". The good life started at home skiing, eating good food and seeing lots of great friends. It continued with a road trip with my friend Michelle, skiing, hiking, climbing and biking in NM, UT and CO. In Boulder I visited some good friends from college and then made my way back to Oregon and arrived just in time for a beautiful sunny weekend of climbing at Smith Rock. Since then I have got some skiing, biking climbing and quality time with friends in.
I have filled out job application after application and realize I am not really qualified to do much of anything, or at least other people who have spent much more time in the "real world" are more qualified than I. The only "job" I have come across is babysitting two days a week (I guess I am qualified to hang out with kids). I decided to be happy with the two days of work a week and enjoy my time off because I deserve it after working on Korea for a year. The first time I said this out loud I realized how ridiculous it sounds since most normal people work for many years straight without a break...but I guess I'm just not a normal person. You may be wondering, how can you have a "Summer of Paco" on no income? Well that's where the blueberry farm comes in. I am planning on working for about 6 weeks during blueberry season on a friends farm, hopefully doing some translating for migrant workers and whatever else it is you do on a blueberry farm.
Then the "Summer of Paco" will continue, my friend Colleen and I are planning on hiking the Washington section of the PCT in August. If everything goes as planned I will start grad school in the Fall. Maybe then I will be qualified to get a job, if not at least I will have a masters and feel like I should be employable, or at the very least I will feel more accomplished.